A rebel without a clue.

Sunday morning awaiting a bus to take me from this dirty town. I avoided Leeds yesterday by getting off in Oakwood. It was the community day there so was forced to stay and not go directly to the flat... Which was good. Eve, Sam and Kate in The Melbourne accommodated me well and I gave Kate the remains of the dwarf beans I'd left over from yesterday in the greenhouse and up the allotment. Had an abysmal and dry vegan burger in a dried, but nutritional, wholegrain breadcake and a pork Greek kebab in Pitta Fan where I feel like I am under a magnifying glass whenever I cross the threshold - asking for no chips was a strange request ... Thought I was shaking off the cold yesterday, but last night I was coughing phlegm and struggling to breath properly. I am waiting for the sun to break through... And head to Wetherby for a calm calm peaceful Sunday ... I am always blown away by the people who hang around on a morning... Those with no fixed abode. Like living dead. Hungry ghosts. But th...

Final day and it's raining. A good week so far, although a little cool when the breeze picks up. Yesterday Lola, Ruby and I managed the long one to the derelict WW2 munitions factory part between Thorp Arch Trading Estate and the restored railway viaduct, but since then Ruby and Lola have been pretty sparked out. Lola is now getting beyond those walks: although she loves the adventure, but the end she's so frazzled ... Perhaps it's time to reduce the 'long' one to something better as she creeps towards 8. Ruby is nearing 5 so can keep going, but that was a new place yesterday so she's snoozing processing all the sights and sounds enveloped in the wilderness which has sprung out of 80 years of tree growth on that site of national importance... Porridge and another reset day as they return to Wetherby from Rome this afternoon. No allotment with the weather as it is ... I've picked up a slight sniffle since I returned to the UK. Although I kept my distance the ...

I guess I was a little sleep deprived yesterday - don't let Ruby share a bed: to say she's so petite she hogs the bed more than Lola ever does. She's decided she likes being under the covers with me - like Lola - but tends to move against me during the night ... I've begun wondering if she gets a little cold at night and likes to 'snuggle' up by pushing me to the edge of the bed I am allocated during my sitting duties. She slept in the front bedroom after going out at 1 to tell whatever it is at the bottom of the garden to sod off. But I'd already been asleep some time by then ... Porridge again this morning. Just a little too much meat the first two days here with chorizo, sausages, chilli chicken, pizza with bacon and pepperoni. Yesterday I went to the allotment and brought back purple sprouting broccoli, spring greens and rhubarb and now mother is fighting for her segment when I suggested I leave it for Maureen ...

A quiet start to Wednesday. Ruby's pretty exhausted from the two parts of yesterday. She's had breakfast and returned to bed - well curled up next to me on her sofa. We weren't late getting back from Harrogate. Just a couple of hours change of scenery and a good half an hour along the Stray to West Park. Crossing the road near the Prince of Wales roundabout is difficult and I almost got run over as the delivery driver didn't see me until the last moment even though I was signalling at him. Eight am and helicopter drifts over head... And my attention has switched to Basel next Wednesday for a bit more walking. Mother thinks she's away from the 12th and I didn't get a confirmation date for cataract surgery yesterday when I spoke to St James Hospital eye clinic. Ruby rearranges herself and watches the birds come and go with a sigh and a yawn. Her belly groans as does mine. It's overcast and cold. Yesterday was the best day for being out so far...

First full day with Ruby. Had a great evening's sleep. Awoke naturally at 5:30am decided to get up. An hour later I wriggled with Ruby on their bed, then she came downstairs, thought about going out for her toilet, but it's too cold, and demanded her breakfast and some more. Must have used all her strength and energy while running around on Crowcroft Bank - Lola was also exhausted when I took her home around noon. Just Ruby and I this morning, going to walk up to the allotment with her, via King's Meadow, it's a little cold on the evening - for the butt end of April (a little frost) - so may wait to transplant lettuce, cabbages and more beetroot? Looks better Saturday morning... Got the governments promised Cost of Living payment so paid some of the debt from France off. The rest will have to wait until summer... Although I am not 100% about it I have checked in online for the proposed trip to Germany, via Basel, where I'd planned to connect with Michael for another...

Seven o'clock at the end of my way. Food then bed. Long day. But I reached the coast, but didn't see the sea. Argeles-sur-Mer, but I stayed put. Caught the bus back to Perpignan around 5 and hung around in the centre just to eat then returned to the Auberge du Jeunesse, where I had already checked in. And it's a Sunday. An interesting six days walking. Pretty relentlessly. Some pains and some bites, definitely yesterday and Friday. But I have antihistamines... And I saw spring from a Mediterranean and alpine prospective, before returning to the UK as spring unfolds there too: it's definitely my favourite season, for a change... Crossed over La Tét to walk up to the airport which is around 5kilometres away. On my final morning. It's been a worthwhile, but slightly costly, affair. But entirely worth it. Being away somewhere where comprehension of a language is barely sufficient is like being somewhere on a silent retreat. I never hear the thoughts passing people's...

What next? Why back into France over the top. I simply don't fancy Figueres this time and I've a white and red stripe for company - a French walking sign on the Chemin Saint-Jacques or GR route... As they often intertwine. ... At the end of a hard shift I am back in Place du Neuf Jets awaiting a slap up meal from 19:15 onwards. Lap of luxury and I've 'earned' it - such bullshit. I am just having this good moment after all those preceding billions of billions since 6am this morning... By the time I'd taken many many wrong tracks in the forest trying to locate Maçanet de Cabrenyn, crossing over rapids for hopefully the last time, I couldn't decide whether to keep south to Figueres or head over the Col to Céret for a second bite of its cherries... In the end I took the short straw to a long endurance day up to Coll de Pou de la Neil and then exhilarating, but exhausting, long way down to Céret where it was a beer, a shower, a beer, food, a beer, a beer and bed....

Tapis is silence indeed and yet more strange dreams throughout the night: but I don't remember the themes this time I just recall feeling insubstantial or incomplete within them. A bit early for breakfast at the restaurant next door and attached to the hostel/hotel. I've a sunrise to myself as the hostess said eight for breakfast, but I can't wait so long really as I've one more day walking... Perhaps all the way to Figueres. If I don't walk today it won't be completed and will remain insubstantial. I rang the buzzer and am in the Can - which is Catalonian for Casa. Many many dogs: at least 5. One old and asleep in the bar area who looks a bit snappy. They don't understand English so show their teeth and their eyes so I can see the whites, but two Dalmatians still happy to say good morning! And it's breakfast of champions again... Tostados con Tomate.

Day four a new pinnacle. Walked to St Laurent Cerdans to find it's bleeding closed for everything - it is France's rurality because everyone eats at home, the full bounty, of the Haut Vallespir: up in these hidden pastures... The last village of note before Sud Catalonia and not any suggestion of a reason to hover around for more than to go up one stairway to go down a Jacobs's Ladder of a escalier back to the main route and an Auberge which is no longer a restaurant and to know my foot is capot,  again, after 25 kms. 22 on this bleeding 'way' and mainly up a bloody main road, because there is no other way unless I grow wings, until finally some paths and minor routes? So I hitched to Tapis in a beat up Blue Transit, without back seats, sat amongst the detritus of life, empty food crates with a lovely solitary Collie eating a baguette. The owners both shades, with kinder, took me so I can eat... They passed me by, but as I waved vigorously, they saw me in their rea...

A night full of dreams. In one I was shot dead, alongside a sister, by a ruthless woman - in the same water as a deer and her faun(as the mother deer kicked away at me to get away from me, the hunter and her companion: but it being a dream I entered the spirit world quite alive and determined to track down those responsible! This morning I have a short stretch further up the valley Le Tech to Arles sur Tech and then a decision to make! To go along the valley or up onto the Puig along the GR10 to a Gîtes d'etapes... I am wearing only trainers, but the sole isn't worn out and seems to have good traction! Woke once in the night by the hoots of an owl, or two, and slightly chilly so put on a jersey - first usage of the sleeping bag this time: the apartment had no bedding (€26 extra). Been told to leave it quite as I found it as she waived a €150 deposit which I really don't have! I am at €60 until Friday... I closed the shutters and returned to heavy dreams! Usual two coffees, ...

No walking through the river today. By 12 kilometres a little painful in the left foot so at 14 kilometres I've stopped for today. Up ahead is Arles sur Le Tech, tomorrow, but today it's Amélie les Bains and all those who come for purification by waters... No one wants to grow old and disabled so mineral thermal springs must make us all better? In the general hubbub around Avenue du Dr. Bouix for a coffee and a change of footwear. Easy walking alongside the canal, but on the Via Verte, converted railway track over Viaducts, etc, along Le Tech, striding on concrete does me no favours and the foot flares up once more so I called it a day. In an apartment the other side of Le Tech from Amélie-les-Bains: not bad after I got over the shock of being asked for €150 deposit: if I had it giving it away would've left me stranded. It's a relief she said OK no worries: just leave the apartment as it was found which is very easy. Had a siesta - which I should have had yesterday, but...

This was a day of two halves separated by another over river something thingy. This was subtly different! It was under three bridges, thorns in my hands like stigmata(acacia) and into such an enlightening town: Céret. Clambering over polished stones, boulders and rocks, some slowly gathering moss(it's been dry this winter and spring) I fell headfirst into a group of trees which had thorns ready to spear me like on a crucifix or like a crown around my head? Boy that was strange! 

Good morning Le Boulou, slightly hazy this Tuesday. A bit too many vin blanc after that tremendous day - it was meant to be me meandering passed Banyuls? But not so bad. At the boulangerie Maison Dubois at 6:30 to think about the route into Spain(a la Catalonia), but like yesterday I want it up to me at that pass ... And just like that I decided I am not following the thousands pouring north and south through that low pass but am continuing up Le Tech! Ceret next along the cycle way.

Bages and a pleasant odour of jasmine(or was it acacia) fills my morning thoughts with peace. Fourteen kilometres before a break. A natural and coffee break. Just prior to 10 and another 2/3 hours will deliver me to? I will need lunch, then locate the hotel. Back to the Boulanger on the main street for a bag of a local flavour La Rousquille as elevensies at ten as the breeze stiffens from the west off Canigou. Last leg of today. Just over 5kms to go. Heading to the Tech river then west to Le Boulou. Too early for repase at midi in the last village: but the Brasserie doesn't serve food anyway... It's a pleasure today in the sun taking all the cobwebs away that have hung heavier and heavier, weighing terribly on my body and soul. Don't kick dogs, especially French German shepherds. Is it going to rain? Doesn't matter. The second half of today was so off the scale as I followed insignificant paths with no clear way to the destination I was going. A proper random Camino day...

The start of another week. Got through yesterday in one piece. Slept soundly - it's peaceful around this neighborhood. I've always felt France is a very quiet place on a Sunday night/Monday morning as they still adhere to Sunday opening times(no shops as such are open) so it's very much a family day. The bars are open until early evening and a couple of restaurants are open too. But it's hard to find. After I'd calmed the demons of fear yesterday - once more - telling myself it costs nothing to walk, I've paid for this evening already and have enough (cough cough) for what today throws my way(42€). As I don't get PIP until Wednesday I was hoping I could get to Tuesday without dipping into Credit Cards for a day. €70 per day on the Camino seems expensive, but this is not a widely used path, it's not in Spain - yet - and it's during a time of increasing inflation, etc. I'd like to be on my way by 7am as that's prior to sunrise over the Mediterr...

Exhausted. Nervous. Ready to collapse, but not yet. Food. La Famille - nouvelle cuisine. Nice but Petit - but it filled a hole. On the main bohemian area Carrer Paratilla. Not yet. Good vibes. It's very windy. Coming off the Pyrenees. Outside the airport I hastily removed shorts and put on joggers. It stopped me getting a chill. Lovely in the sun. There was/is no buses on a Sunday between the station and airport so I will need to plan something on Sunday for the return ... That's another story. Now I have a demi blonde biere as I struggle with the French language, again, and find my right eye missing more and more - I almost fell when I went inside the restaurant rather than get chilled on my legs. Tomorrow I am fixed for a night in the Abbaye Saint Michel Cuxa and I don't have to walk too far: 22kms, but I have fears about falling again. Doubly careful. I don't know if I will go the same way as two years back: Gerona isn't too far away. I think the Bistro opposite ...

Sleep deprived as I couldn't stop worrying about the time I would be waking - the alarm wouldn't go off or it would be silent... I had a similar problem in Murcia, with Glenn (who wasn't fretting), back in February in a frigid room, close to the station, as I wasn't 100% that there was a train back to Alicante at the time it was being suggested on Google. After that tumultuous night it appeared that there was an early train, but we couldn't book online! It was a commuter train which had a very difficult system, with no advance purchase, to comprehend. Fortunately an elderly gentleman helped us to get the ticket we needed so we got to the advised stop prior to Alicante. Once we arrived at the bus stop, just prior to the airport, the shuttle bus passed us by without stopping - panic set in again (why do I get so anxious?) - it was full to capacity. Very luckily a worker also going to the airport, who lived close to the stop, was also stranded and decided to drive us t...

Funeral of a friend. Mark has been laid alongside his father (Dennis) at Saint Chad's here in Far Headingley. A lovely service on a beautiful spring day. It's getting greener along the byways and thoroughfares. Here is another end and also a beginning. A lot of people have turned up to wish him a safe journey onwards. Glenn played his heart out on the guitar: one a Sting composition Fragile and the last his own in remembrance. Now the bar in the Church function hall is open. And everyone comes to partake. Mark has been put under an oak tree, away from Chartreuse, the east end of the church, but he's in Garmisch drinking Asbach and eating Weisse Wurst if the truth is known...

Retreating east, slowly. Got off the direct train to Manchester at Oxford Road connecting my feet towards Oldham Street and a return to Oi Polloi which appears to have moved from where I recall it being back in the early naughties. As I really need a replacement for the worn out Paramo Halcon, but perhaps not willing to pay £400 again as I don't have the money coming from looking after Emma and Neil's dogs(they're in Southern Spain pursuing all things 'flat'). Yesterday I tried to get what I needed from Adapt, but the midlayer was too small (medium size - I am definitely a large). But I was out of luck there as the stock had been removed as they have been taken over by JD Sports... Just like Hip Meanswear was?

Liverpool is a suprise. It's really interesting ... I've no idea why I've never visited here ... All my life a 'Liverpool FC' fan (having only been to Anfield once; damn it!), a Beatles fan and a culture and history vulture... I have to say better late than never. Apart from the piles of litter, which is a British problem and not Liverpool's sole responsibility, it's been a weekend I will treasure. Fine I got a little carried away yesterday, after my left foot flared up again and I dragged myself through Cain's Brewery (awful) and sought The Belvedere (where Alysha was very warm and an elderly gentleman gave me a potted history of Liverpool (warts and all)) I crawled into my upgraded room 505 and woke up with a stomach upset. Possibly from too much beer, wine and a slice of much too tempting Victoria Sponge... Upgraded as the initial room, 301, had mould in one corner of the room hidden behind the bunk bed which probably hadn't been moved since the H...