Tapis, end of day four.
Day four a new pinnacle. Walked to St Laurent Cerdans to find it's bleeding closed for everything - it is France's rurality because everyone eats at home, the full bounty, of the Haut Vallespir: up in these hidden pastures... The last village of note before Sud Catalonia and not any suggestion of a reason to hover around for more than to go up one stairway to go down a Jacobs's Ladder of a escalier back to the main route and an Auberge which is no longer a restaurant and to know my foot is capot, again, after 25 kms. 22 on this bleeding 'way' and mainly up a bloody main road, because there is no other way unless I grow wings, until finally some paths and minor routes? So I hitched to Tapis in a beat up Blue Transit, without back seats, sat amongst the detritus of life, empty food crates with a lovely solitary Collie eating a baguette. The owners both shades, with kinder, took me so I can eat... They passed me by, but as I waved vigorously, they saw me in their rea...