A rebel without a clue.

As I walk along La Loire for the final few kilometres it seems the weather is changing: it's still raining, and windy, but the sun is putting in an appearance between clouds. Just as I reach the end of this 'pilgrimage': a pause for another time as tomorrow I am hopping into another BlaBla car to Limoges, then au revoir France and hello Yorkshire (with all its personal hazards). Ten days in some pretty awful weather, and carrying too much stuff, but I must've covered around 300 kilometres between Paris and Tours? Today is another 30 clicks day. At noon I had an Artisanale hamburger in Montlouis-sur-Loire which was enough and got me out of the torrential downpour I had had since 8 leaving Amboise... On my right a mini golf course, after coming down from the top of the escapement where Vouvray AOC grows, it's another couple of bridges before Pont Wilson: which I crossed before on foot - although I am not sure I walked the section I am on in 2014? Last time...

This morning I have to build up to the good stuff again. After too many beers yesterday afternoon I didn't sleep so well: it's the first time since I left the UK I've turned to alcohol...  Perhaps it was always going to happen on a day like yesterday, and with a goal: Tours, very near and the clouds above pounding on my sorry head? This morning is forecast rain once more and I'd seen that yesterday too so was wondering about what I'd do Friday, after arriving drenched, in Amboise? But the wind seems to have abaited and I can hear the pleasant song of the morning chorus... Just one more day on the road. The goal is before me, but first sort out what I am wearing and perhaps leave a little later this morning? I didn't really look around Amboise as I was just staring into an emptying glass most of the time? Stepping out at 7:30 and heading for petit déjeuner on the corner after the Tour l' Horloge, the rain isn't as bewildering as it was yesterday...it'...

Today was so challenging. If this Chemin hasn't already tipped me beyond rescue today surely has? From 7:30am it was rain, heavy or persistent, you take your measure? This morning I left the farm house, a 15th century Grange or Manor which was, apparently, dedicated to Saint Tobias? However I might be completely wrong about the name of the saint - at that point I lost the host... it was very ancient, the wooden interior spoke centuries.  Turned left, after the out buildings, and through an ancient forest - where I heard a barking in the near distance, but it wasn't a wolf, a fox or a dog: stood opposing me was a huge stag. As I stood and faced, he faced and stood then, as I moved, he barked and a whole troop fled away from the cleft between us. At an acute angle, before the deluge, I was turned by the GR/Chemin Saint Jacques back on myself. For a little while I considered its 'touristic' twists and turns, but then decided it was impossible and followed the velo route in...

Tomme des Pyréneés and biére artisanale The Castle Grocery Store, cuvèe renaissance walking into the end of another long etape, Chaumont-sur-Loire on the southern shore of La Loire once more: again the northern shore was pretty tedious. Heading towards Rilly-sur-Loire for one night on a farm? *** And here I am. Sat by myself outside a gypsy caravan. It's a campsite as well as a sheep farm. But I think the farmer is away looking after his flock? There is no one about, no cars, vehicles, except some sheep and their lambs in a 'stable-block'. They're pretty relaxed. They looked at me a couple of times and then returned to whatever it is sheep do when they are not eating... The sun is trying to break through this second day of cloud cover...and up the path comes the farmer, just before 5, to feed the baa-baas - lambing season with 150 mutton to provide for, in addition to their progeny. I'm so remote. This might've been the sanctuary I sought when I left the UK? 7 d...

Yes, I will depart at 7:30, regardless of whether the host (23 Rue des Trois Marchands, donativo) is here to say goodbye. They were a little surprised I would be gone prior to 9. But I prefer the dawn for walking; Michel would like to get a mugshot of me with my rucksack. Thoroughly packed. Had a long refreshing shower last evening: first since Chartres... Everyday isn't necessary really, but I know some folks can't do without it? Primarily I would like to look around Blois a little this morning before to my route takes me west. And the host Michel has arranged for me to sleep in a farm surrounded by sheep - Amma ferme du Plessis. He says stick to the south way. Perhaps that's what he was saying? But I don't know as after he began speaking a little English he then dropped into rapid French where I understand half the content and had no words but comprendre  or je ne comprends pas to reply. *** The news! It's obsessed with just one thing! Well, currently...

At the end of a massive, continental, Camino day. It was so tough, but I got to the end in almost one piece. With, finally, two bits of reading material - only needed Cakes and Ale , by W. Somerset Maugham, but returned from the excellent bookshop with two Penguin Orange Backs: the second being Dandelion Days  by Henry Williamson - 1/6d each(€2) and both published in 1950(not first editions sadly). At the end of a frantic walk I do like to unwind into a novel or something uncorrupted by the media mafia conceits of current times: who talk nonsense to get people to chose sides as I walk down the narrow edge between them. Michel & Danielle, my hosts, have a wonderful 'studio' for pèlerin. I've finally got to 'caminoland' with today's very good repase  and this evening's reposé.  I am a lucky man, but perhaps after 35 Kms I earned it.

Extremely bug-ger-ed(tired beyond the word tired). Had to hitch after the last stretch along the Loire between Muides-sur-Loire and Saint Dyé-sur-Loire. Much better visually on the left bank: the right bank was long and straight along the top of the levee. The left bank had those last two leafy tumbling pathways. Unrinating on this side was much better! I wasn't staring at a nuclear power plant while irradiating out the copious water I'd drunk during repase.  Thirty five kilometres this day. Never with a spring in my step. Unlike from Orléans: La Ruche was just too remote. But I didn't catch a bus or train and the second car to pass me by stopped: a small Renault, with a guy off to play football after work: good man, auto-stop. No English spoken so we used Google Translate like a Babbelfish... Perhaps something like a universal translator is around the corner? Before I present myself for this evening with the family hosts I have come for an earned Petrus Red: th...