A rebel without a clue.

End of day one! But it's only noon. I am in the Alberg de pelegrins d'Ampost a because at 11 I thought it's suddenly too hot for a long afternoon  towards Tortosa - 20 kilometres done since leaving els Muntells around 6:15am. The ex-president, wife and current president were very helpful, but the ex-president was giving me a headache: too much information for the future. I don't like to see too far ahead on the Camino. Each day should be as it comes - especially in this heat? I am here now. The bed is made. There isn't much to the kitchen (it's entire without condiments, coffee machine, etc) but I am the 7th Peregrino since they opened in October. They are trying to develop the way from here so I wish them success. There doesn't look like there is too much to concern myself with here in Amposta, but I couldn't walk any further. The ex-president tried to show me the way tomorrow but he led me into the sun! Minus the floppy hat I couldn't do it and I a...

What a beautiful vista? It might be flat as a skillet, without edges, and you could conceivably believe the world is flat here, but a sunrise and paddy field landscape to give me my first bite of el Camino. Arrived in Sant Jaume d'Enveja just around 7:30 after a hasty six kilometres from els Muntells. Time for esmorzar. Just on time for the children to go to school, being collected outside the iglesia and to count the mosquito bites I've just received in the swamp... These paddy fields are their evening and morning hunting grounds? I guess these are European/western mosquitoes because I was miles from people (and they looked differently attired). The hife bus arrives to take the chicos and chicas away, I take antihistamines and then head off for post coffee dispatch.

€18 to look a little better? A Barber's shop visit to kill a little time away from the onslaught of the sea breeze in the sunshine. It's difficult, but to see old gentlemen tending to their allotments in the mid afternoon sun I swoon! They simply feel it differently and respond due to their nature's - they were born on this flat baking delta. They'd be frozen solid in England and a bit mouldy too? And I always wanted to see a Delta, then I recalled I'd seen the Camargue which is the same. I am losing the plot a little. I can hardly communicate in Spanish, but Catalan has lost me absolutely: it is a completely new language for me to listen to, picking out words I understand in other people's conversations. Last year when coming off the Pyrenees, undone by the fall near Vinça, I struggled to make any sense of what was being said. Now I do understand that Catalonia isn't Spain. It's culturally, historically, socially different. It's time to ...

The ever present drone of the autovia following me breaking the illusion of being solitary, below the sky - along the edge of land and sea - crawling along the rolling coves, cliffs, inlets and beaches. *** Up and down. Down and then up! All the way along the GR92 it was testing my patience: and the sun was getting a little intense too. Finally stopped for the morning - it's one!  Will eat well before attempting the next leg of the journey: Deltebre... Give me Entrecot, extra rare, but first Croquetas Jamon.  It's extremely warm, already, for June and it's testing me absolutely. It's a coastal path, but it takes it to the extreme! I had to remove my boots with 7.5 kilometres left until L'Ampolla, as the strain was showing on the old war wounded foot, and on went the sandals which have given me blisters... I feel like a maniac as I down a Entrecot, fried egg, frites and a large salad. I was going to hang on, but someone lit up behind me so I am on my way ...

Damn you person on the floors above playing music at 4am until 5... Inconsiderate and garbage all the way - Would I Lie To You! They can't have been young or fashionable to listen to 1980s/90s crap. Struggling in and out of sleep until a Gull suggested its daylight. Now I await breakfast at 7:30, it's part of the price and yet I so feel like not having it here, but instead along the dockside... ... I couldn't wait for breakfast so I went up to the Mercat, which was closed, so I find myself on the same boulevard where there is Jacaranda blossoms falling. Just up from the Port... La Rambleta. And the flies are finding plenty of substances on me ... Subtly better than mosquitoes. It's going to be 31°C today... Camino del Ebro tomorrow? Ate Dorada last night in Oh! Mar with a couple of glasses of dry white wine it was lovely. The recommendation was worthy of €17 (I was truly swindled in Esmeralda...£29) I also had a better Gazpacho in Cala Cris. I was a bit desperate yester...

After a few indecisions, revisions and decisions I determined that I have walked enough today. The lunch just didn't inspire me and this town: L'Ametlla de Mar is large enough to shake down. One more day it seems - 'with the scores on the doors' - 35 kilometres to Amposta, where I am not going... It has got an official Alberg.... I am meant to be heading to Deltebre! Tomorrow is another day. Time for an Estrella Damm, olives and to person watch for a little time? The Hotel, where I got a double room, with a bath, for €49.01(Hotel l'Alguer) including breakfast at 7:30am(which is 6:30am UK time)! Nearly 27 kilometres since 8am until I sought the bath at half past three. Eating that huge hamburger last night really gave me a lot of energy, regardless of the beers and average night's sleep. The sun too... Not the nudists; I was more interested in the nuclear power plant! Tomorrow is a long way off, but I am so happy to have managed zero public transport ...

Missed my turn so now I am passing through nudist zone: why would anyone parade their charms like this? Good job his box of Special K was where I would've seen his non-special C! Is there any other way but The Way? Certainly if I hadn't not seen the turn off I certainly would have needed a microscope to spot what couldn't be seen? It was like a retreating slug! *** 5 hours which got very weary as I sought to stop for repase. I think I stumbled upon an average and expensive experience at Esmeralda in Sant Jordi d'Alfama, with it humps of ghost towns: a result of overextension in 2008. Nearly had another bump in the wallet but they didn't have Plato de Queso. After a Calzone, which seemed more like a crimped pastry than a bread offering... It was OK. It was enough for another couple of hours? *** I put back my arrival at Alberg Deltebre another night. Something says walk all the way; I absolutely detest masks on busy public transport so walking it is - but...