A rebel without a clue.

Just over two hours walk the rural way to the airport, apart from the last house on the right, who wouldn't open a gate for me - le Grande Bois (I gave him a raspberry, turned back and walked through his paddock) - it was a healthy option. Still no public transport. Just the Flyer at Leeds Bradford Airport, and sullen faced folks in the queue to check in baggage. The long yawn back to Blighty begins. Time to arrange my backpack and hand luggage and then eat a breakfast a leak quiche and Belchard apple: Charentes - purchased at Les Halles. As departures gets busy I sit on the floor: no way to socially distance... It's a tiny airport. The dreadful monologue of the Geordie couple behind me... They say nothing, but could take forever. Waiting. I hate flying. It's so meaningless.

I've realized I am a lucky man. Serendipity is the means by which life unfolds. To be true take the suggestions presented. I tried very hard to find a place to stay for under €40 in Limoges, but there is some event on here until Sunday: so the place is complet  and I was wondering if I could sleep at the airport this evening? I've done it before: but I slept on the floor better then... now I hardly sleep without some cushioning. Having left the Tourisme with no where: no place for pilgrim or place for tourist, I was stranded in Limoges. Second bite of the city since 2018 and it was playing against me again. Last time the Sœurs Franciscan was full and this time closed because they have no electricity: that's mendicant pour vous! Up to Les Halles, just as it was closing at 3pm, and I saw Greenville...  and the rest would appear to be history. I've got to walk to Rue de Strasbourg, 39, and the proprietor (Richard/Ricard) of Greenville is willing, even with his GF arriving ...

Rarely have I been so exhausted from anything. Yesterday, and the previous 9 days, walking like a fool, 30 kilometres a day, I couldn't keep from yawning. After I had had some food: a savoury humus tartine with roasted veg, etc., and a Petrus Red, my legs carried me through the Basilique, into the guesthouse and back up the 3 floors. Where I washed some smalls, and crawled into bed. Woken by several voices in the night, people leaving their various occasions, I rolled over and woke with a start at 6:30... ... Such a relief to be knowing I did what I did regardless without much more than a finger infection; which appears to have vanished - abracadabra. Penicillin and healthy being? My mind isn't so tangled today as it might've been. Oh but I lost a book - I left it as I paid for the meal... Cakes and Ale, Penguin Orange, 1950, Somerset Maugham. Blue sky this morning. Yup. It's over and the weather changed!!! If I had zero responsibilities in Yorkshire, and a limitless am...

As I walk along La Loire for the final few kilometres it seems the weather is changing: it's still raining, and windy, but the sun is putting in an appearance between clouds. Just as I reach the end of this 'pilgrimage': a pause for another time as tomorrow I am hopping into another BlaBla car to Limoges, then au revoir France and hello Yorkshire (with all its personal hazards). Ten days in some pretty awful weather, and carrying too much stuff, but I must've covered around 300 kilometres between Paris and Tours? Today is another 30 clicks day. At noon I had an Artisanale hamburger in Montlouis-sur-Loire which was enough and got me out of the torrential downpour I had had since 8 leaving Amboise... On my right a mini golf course, after coming down from the top of the escapement where Vouvray AOC grows, it's another couple of bridges before Pont Wilson: which I crossed before on foot - although I am not sure I walked the section I am on in 2014? Last time...

This morning I have to build up to the good stuff again. After too many beers yesterday afternoon I didn't sleep so well: it's the first time since I left the UK I've turned to alcohol...  Perhaps it was always going to happen on a day like yesterday, and with a goal: Tours, very near and the clouds above pounding on my sorry head? This morning is forecast rain once more and I'd seen that yesterday too so was wondering about what I'd do Friday, after arriving drenched, in Amboise? But the wind seems to have abaited and I can hear the pleasant song of the morning chorus... Just one more day on the road. The goal is before me, but first sort out what I am wearing and perhaps leave a little later this morning? I didn't really look around Amboise as I was just staring into an emptying glass most of the time? Stepping out at 7:30 and heading for petit déjeuner on the corner after the Tour l' Horloge, the rain isn't as bewildering as it was yesterday...it'...

Today was so challenging. If this Chemin hasn't already tipped me beyond rescue today surely has? From 7:30am it was rain, heavy or persistent, you take your measure? This morning I left the farm house, a 15th century Grange or Manor which was, apparently, dedicated to Saint Tobias? However I might be completely wrong about the name of the saint - at that point I lost the host... it was very ancient, the wooden interior spoke centuries.  Turned left, after the out buildings, and through an ancient forest - where I heard a barking in the near distance, but it wasn't a wolf, a fox or a dog: stood opposing me was a huge stag. As I stood and faced, he faced and stood then, as I moved, he barked and a whole troop fled away from the cleft between us. At an acute angle, before the deluge, I was turned by the GR/Chemin Saint Jacques back on myself. For a little while I considered its 'touristic' twists and turns, but then decided it was impossible and followed the velo route in...

Tomme des Pyréneés and biére artisanale The Castle Grocery Store, cuvèe renaissance walking into the end of another long etape, Chaumont-sur-Loire on the southern shore of La Loire once more: again the northern shore was pretty tedious. Heading towards Rilly-sur-Loire for one night on a farm? *** And here I am. Sat by myself outside a gypsy caravan. It's a campsite as well as a sheep farm. But I think the farmer is away looking after his flock? There is no one about, no cars, vehicles, except some sheep and their lambs in a 'stable-block'. They're pretty relaxed. They looked at me a couple of times and then returned to whatever it is sheep do when they are not eating... The sun is trying to break through this second day of cloud cover...and up the path comes the farmer, just before 5, to feed the baa-baas - lambing season with 150 mutton to provide for, in addition to their progeny. I'm so remote. This might've been the sanctuary I sought when I left the UK? 7 d...