A rebel without a clue.

The anticlimax of the day after. However I really never saw the Way I search for on this Camino. Too oriented towards reaching the destination, in the heat of the afternoon, and it was up to me not to be the same, but I think I failed. Saying goodbye to those I've walked a long way with. Some took selfies. And some gave hugs. After a bad stomach ache during the night and a constant coughing from someone in the dormitory I feel pretty shady - and the light in the shower cubicle also regularly coming on helped not at all! It's probably not true that I never felt at ease. I did at the beginning in the greenery of the Pyrenees and below. Then I got into the pattern of the other folks on the way to Santiago. I am so fond of the ways through France, where I rarely meet another soul. But I just had to revisit the Camino Frances. Now I am indecisive about whether I stay here in Burgos,  and be a tourist, or go to Santander to do the same! It's probably advisable to have...

Humid room and a minor hangover. Thanks John! Once we get going it's a laugh a second!!! Coming down into Burgos, at last, shortly! It's took me ten years to get to here myself and back then I couldn't cope with all the young folks playing-up, perhaps now I am less judgemental, a little less arrogant and more understanding of youthfulness ... Well I hope so? Checked into the Albergue Municipal which is modern and comfortable at €10 so I've left it for a menu del día at an establishment adjacent to the cathedral - Bonfin desde 1962. Came back exhausted, showered and slept... Then preambulated back towards the Albergue Municipal on the corner below it I've had a couple of vino de Jerez and am enjoying a plate of Padron pimiento with a Gordello: back for another snooze, el Cantina Calle de Fernan Gonzalez. It's a city: a large town really with a population akin to Bradford, but it has very large area. There is nothing after here but Meseta Central, whic...

It's true: I've been walking 10 years, almost constantly, with Lola and long distances between them. Yesterday I felt that's enough of this blasted nothingness, but a good night's sleep has resurrected me and I continue on to Burgos. Day ten and life stories poured out as John, the Kiwi, gave me his and his wife's (who is literally a Dame and four times Open squash champion: Susan Devoy). Then I poured out all my pain of the previous 20+ years, since JWBS demise, which brought me to the  brick wall which is Camino ... And then it brought forth a sob or two. End of day ten, at the second calling, San Juan was a terrible nothing and the albergue was a parroquial which charges (because it hadn't been a part of the church for ten years and is privado) so I couldn't pay! The awesome chica(Annette) from Austin Texas said she'd pay: which was lovely, but I couldn't stay after I saw a pizza disappear from the first bar for 100 metres before being...

Cock-a-doodle-fucking-doo at 3am! I ask you! And the church bells too. It was a good albergue, but you can't chose what is around you? Feeling a little fragile so far this morning: there are some snoring and a lot of coming and going in the night. I am such a sensitive sleeper... already to bolt! Fight or flight at the ready. It must be hereditary shell sock? And I've begun to lose count of the days since I left Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port that fateful day! ... Is this it? My final day on the Camino? I can't see the purpose of the way anymore. I am definitely looking for something which I no longer need. Ten years older and a little wiser. Walking up alongside the road, two days prior to Burgos... I just don't know. I can walk forever but the shadow still follows me. But I am trying to walk for Leeds Mind also ... Two more days is fine. Tonight I am doing nothing related to the social element of the Camino Frances. It's not the purpose of my existence. Neither is averag...

The day is ending and the Cane Corso is laying by his master's feet. He's five and tired. But knowing Lola he's probably had a grand experience with all those other smells, noises and sights? I saw him yesterday and then this lunchtime. So I had a plate of Bolognese, but I had to ask for a spoon and some cheese(parmesan wasn't possible). My stomach is full so it's time to retire. I didn't shower today as I sat on the edge of the square beside the albergue watching the pilgrims stumble into town one at a time and couldn't be arsed to be clean... Café Espolón. The guy (Andalusian) with the 6 dogs, who I saw earlier, also passed along the street and I said hello to those fine guys - we're friends I feel as he said I have good energy and the Carne Corso thinks I am fine too.

Not one person said good morning this morning, except the Spanish gentleman from Galicia. The remainder looked like their faces were by their boots. It's a difficult walk. I know. They're struggling with conflicting emotions. The young men are trying to get their legs over with the various chica who they circle around like the flies who crawled over me yesterday or around a freshly presented shit. There is a war arising in the middle east once more betwixt the greedy Israeli's and the increasingly marginalised Palestinians - oh boy! Who provoked who ... it's a chicken and egg scenario which the victors in ww1 set evolving into its current nonsense. So I stopped in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Grañon has mats for beds and it has no credential sello. I rocked up with Robbie from Glasgow and Michael with no Brummie accent from Birmingham. My bed is on the second floor in room 2 and is 2002 ... I like the vibe.

Pretty tough day. Relentlessly straightforward and by the afternoon the sun is unbearable, but I managed two bunches of naturally dried bunches of tempranillo grapes that hadn't been taken to make Rioja and I brought plenty of food at the café by the church in Navarrete. It was important to spend an hour there before the long 17kms section. The bottom of the water container was warm by the last swig. A few of the other pilgrims are passing me looking bloody exhausted too, but the kitchen is closed... Nájera. So I wandered to the monastery, where the way passes tomorrow, and called in for tapas at Bar Talisman. It's all pretty uninspiring, but I am wearing fresh knickers! What is it about?