Hornillos del Camino

From a good to a bad pilgrim: a private room in a private albergue. It's a single, but I still have the room without all the moving, grumbling, sighing, screaming, talking or walking in the night. I also went for supper and breakfast: demi-pension, but lunch was from a can: beans and sausage with bread and the water I made the effort to pour from Fuente de Prao Torre using the hand pump. Finally I bought some soap! I'd managed without for the whole time as I 'found' stuff along the way. The stomach ache is subsiding too. Shower and siesta ...

The fountain/spring water at Fuente de Prao Torre was wonderful! The sweetest yet from the various fountains on offer ... Although the one up in the Pyrenees is so long ago it might have also been as excellent...

In a cupboard I swapped Plato: The Laws for 4321 by Paul Aster as I wasn't sure ancient Greek philosophy is my bag on this tiring journey.

The 'other' Camino individual appears in me, as I know none of the folks wandering the thirteenth stage proper, only three or four were back there in Roncesvalles, so can be quiet and studious.

The pilgrims ate a handsome paella with copious salad, wine and water. And I left them as my spoon clattered into the bowl which I'd just cleansed of home made yogurt with lemon and honey and love added. I was silent and preoccupied with returning to seek slumber.

I awoke twice in the night, early morning, as I thought it was raining but it was someone running water somewhere in the albergue. The walls aren't thick. But I slept almost as soon as I left the dining table.

Most of my dreams were of people trying to cause me pain for absolutely no reason. Just for my existence. I had to keep on running... In the last dream I actually floated to the roof tops to escape pursuit. Is it fear which brings me dreams like these? But what am I afraid of?

Breakfast and the usual predawn routine I will not partake of. I want to leave with the sun showing its light before me.

Again I booked a flight back for Friday as it was only €15 from Santander to Manchester... It gets much more expensive the final weekend of October ... Am I ever returning to England, West Yorkshire, Wetherby, 42 Braine Road?!?