Monday: arrive.

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How does this great thing keep happening whenever I become now?

Truly their still exists the kindness of strangers. From Julia at a crossroads stood next to the Town Hall to four plus I in Starbucks(not for coffee but just to keep warm) and Julia brought me here as there seemed no where to go apart from Ibis, etc where I would have missed the true Germany. Wow I was there for just one reason - to meet a mother whom probably always put her precious cargo first so could incorporate my loose organisation.

Julia, enjoy tonight your trip to the theatre with your son - I hope you realise how true your mother is?

Gerd, whom finally let me rest after an afternoon of culture and photos and walking me round and passed the start of Christmas Eves Pilgerweg. Beyenburg with it's dam and deep hillsides reminds me of what my feet might really fear if I don't double my socks and walk without fear.

An excited man whom gives you every warmth. And a woman who cared so much to see how it all finished. I saw this lifting me up and making my way higher than perhaps I could never have sought.

Walking the first Etape upon Christmas Eve setting off south east. A fond hug to a free soul whom I gathered in delighted to not be frightened of the kindnesses of strangers.

As I relax in warm surroundings drinking tea and munching Stollen a drooping of my eyes over come. Fully clothed I seek warmth between numerous quilts. The family invited me for food at 6:30pm. We lit a votive candle to the Schwartz Madonna in the Klein Chapel of Santa Maria. Remember where you are when you are walking and the saints may help you along.

Where did we go so wrong. When did we doubt everyone? Our neighbours our community, our town, city, county and country. What sobered our nation so far or have we always shown the cold shoulder to guests because we have this terrible forsaking. It is possibly so profound to be in Germany and have all this love and hospitality unasked for. As I was about to step out to find any food for Tuesday's unbelievable reality (I've heard it is meant to rain (bloody Aubrac come to chase me on another mountain)) Gerd's sonnes - two giants (47/48) and their friend (41)(leaving for Thailand Wednesday) showed me total friendship and hospitality. We watched Kill Bill parts one and two - I laughed and enjoyed Beyenburg's (or Kill Bill's) Cinema Club, fine and coarse local slaughter(butcher)man sausage and enough Krombacher to launch a ship: they have a tally so all is square. But I hesitate to take hospitality into obscurity and must retire to ready for another adventure on Christmas Eve: it really is a season of gifts. Although I am cut off and about to vanish entirely I am happy from the core of my being.

A final photo with the pater of this amazing family(i climb into his bed to share my other ability - humour) I am so fortunate to be befriend. Heartfelt hugs and Bon Camino - I breakfast at seven-thirty. We are the lucky few.

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