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end of day four

Once I thought 'it's always up over and then down into another river/stream/watering hole for bed' and that's all it is really, or like the New Zealander said the longest pub crawl on Earth. Today was short, and I was weary until I discovered Riesling, Semillon and Garnatxa Blanco. Now I ate prawns and mushrooms on a stick. Why did I do three days over two? I am stupid. It all feels surreal. Food, food then bed 

leaving Puente La Reina

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People are stiring and I feel mentally fatigued. I couldn't locate my teeth just now... but then I recall I left them where I always do! Then I cracked a joke, but in usual way I cleared the room! Toulouse? No to win! (perdre? non pour gagner!) As I am a day ahead of the pilgrims I set off with, from Saint Jean, I was forced to insinuate myself amongst the throng outside a bar, which I did, but I felt bad for leaving lose I left with behind. They will mostly be leaving Pamplona this morning? Enjoyed a pilgrim supper with Irish, New Zealanders, Deesider and Dutch. €23 for a vast amount of food - Bar Aloa. Puente is famous for its rojo pimento of which I ate a mountain of, on top of a bunch of garnaxa grapes... and I am strangely weepy. I apologised for snapping at the young lady who was concerned I may drink bad water ... I was being judgemental yesterday!

on the way to Pamplona and in earnest Puente La Reina

The joy of ripe rosehips. Where today? Heaven not hell Manufacturing in the valley Sore mill no excuse As an arrow, young, points ahead I ask if I don't move will it cease? Or walk-on not knowing And non-stop Pushed and pulled; apart Argued, not agreed Divided inside and outside When there is only within. *** Day three begins in earnest, after a proper scrambled egg, ham, cheese, yogurt, croissant, OJ and coffee(€6) with one bottle Vichy Catalan(€2): bliss! Leaving Pamplona which I don't recall from 2013 at all. But what day is it? It's now. But could also be considered Friday in Pamplona - which should be avoided as though the plague is sweeping the land and the four horsemen have full saddlebags. Nearing Puente La Reina and I recall nothing of passing here in 2013 and I probably wasn't here although my body, and a very heavy sack, was. Where my mind was is anyone's guess. A wee lassie from England said I would drink that water as I scooped to try a trickle from a ...

Day Two, nearly all the way to Pamplona.

Another early awake for me. But there is nowhere to go ... and I don't know where next. I didn't yesterday after arriving either! It feels like a little piece of a jigsaw puzzle, so long looked for, has finally been rediscovered as the section of the Camino Frances between Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and Roncesvalles is now in my memory as being accomplished. Previously I was forced, during winter, to use the other route when I was coming back from Pamplona to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to complete that section of the Camino. I could leave all these newbies, or I could carry on to be around them as some of their conceits vanish and are replaced with another... it is a rites of passage for anyone the first time. In the night some persons definitely threw up. Either their supper, the beer, the wine or all. I hope it wasn't Song, the lad from Seoul I spent the an excellent supper with in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and who seems to look up to me ... it's quite nice to be the village ...

leaving SJPDP

Awake at 5. Nice afternoon/evening. Free flip-flops. And a nice supper with a young Korean gentleman on his first expedition in to Caminoland. Sunrise isn't until 8 am so ideally another hour of Lalaland ... At 6 I am going to the bakery after meeting a Spaniards from Valencia, two Argentines(both Amigos), one Hong Kong lady and many Korean individuals and drinking coffee and eating ferme yogurt. Two plus hours with an American ultra-marathon 36 year old. Who I let disappear into the most as we approached the physics student from London Ontario... nuff said. Solace. Just passed Orisson and they're at the bar. I will leave them there?  They went for the sunrise, but of course the pass is filled with low clouds... oh dear? Forgiveness is a patch to help the healing over what never seems capable of forgetting. Eating and drinking my fill at the Hostal, where I am tempted to sleep - even though the refugio is €14 as I am frightened of the two North America guys... I lost them then ...

arrived at the start

Outside Le Gare De Bayonne a crowd gathers for the bus to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. To be surrounded by so many people and voices is so unusual. An experience I haven't had since 2013. Does it fill me with fear or with love. *** Depends on the conversations. I was wedged between two American grad students and one, almost American, Canadian grad student at the back of the bus. Some kind of rock and a hard place. After the initial helloes, which brought our Canadian cousin to my left front into the midst, I wanted off the bus to mind my own thoughts: nowt like a physics student reducing me to a Turing Machine to make me wonder. I kept quiet quite long enough until he used the term computer to define me! But then he wasn't having a real experience at all? As he conjured up his sex life with these two sisters from DC as a programmed happening ... It's just not me! But I am in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. That was insane. I've not stopped, but now I relax by the stream climbing d...

after

Well I am straight into the cluster of folks around the breakfast table, but I am absolutely shattered from yesterday. It's wonderful to hear them all speak their French tones, four are from Quebec, and to be glowered at as I arrived after 1 am, because they weren't operating  the Tramline after 21:30 due to scheduled works - and I was on the slow bus stopping at each and every blasted stop along the same route - but the challenge of the endurance and not falling into drunken slumber (because that was impossible). The sounds of the Camino... now I know I physically cannot begin on 6 broken hours sleep, on the back of yesterday's mammoth day back from Wetherby, mum and Lola. Where to this morning? Dax or Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port... the train departs at 10:19 so I will stop enroute at Marche des Capuchin where memories flood back. Flipping a coin I decided to head to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, €42 - which was most of yesterday's allowance - so I will start from Saint-Jean-Pi...