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Walk. And rest day.

Opportunity to have a warm bath. Two days without and my body required that! On the scales I am a trim 77.5kg and have covered 107.9kms on foot since leaving Canterbury on Wednesday morning. But I read somewhere that back weight ratio should be only 15% of body weight. So I might have to really send back some items to get the optimum weight down to 11.675kgs including boots, water, food and warm layers. This village is Labuissièrre on the IGN and it has an ancient church - Saint Martin. I am not too far from Vimy Ridge which I missed in 2014. So perhaps it would be necessary to visit the site of the trenches - get a feel for the horror of trench warfare. It is not in the village, but to the South West. When I head north again. The war was such a horrible consequence of the ego. Which side was God on in this conflict? To see an image of a whole trench of dead Germans killed in an instant. We are not made aware often enough. Just two minutes once every year! It just isn't enough. Ev...

Wisques, rain and exhaustion

With a solid day of walking behind me I am now at Notre Dames Abbeye Wisques. My sack is much too heavy. I will leave some things here and return for them on the 25th on route north again? If I leave my sleeping bag, bivvy and pillow I may not feel quite so oppressed by the end of the day? Will ask Soeur Lucie if I may return for one night, on my way north, at dinner. ... There are a group of French undergraduates in a house the Soeur's have apart for pilgrims. We shared dinner in the refectory and they helped me to get my request across to Soeur Lucie that it would be helpful if I could reduce the strain of the weight I was carrying? She's fine with me leaving it here to return on the day prior to departing back across the Channel and I can sleep here again. I am not up to another 100 kms with the backpack as it was. Yesterday I rushed because by noon it was getting heavier and heavier to get to the Abbey for around half three. ... Gathering around the breakfast table I ad...

From Temple Ewell to Brêmes

The clocks ticking to remind me of my death; I am awake at six. Why does anyone require more than one time piece? And why must they all tick off another second from our short mortality? Such a snug bed otherwise and Ruth provided a wonderfully healthy supper. Last night she went to a Pentecostal Church group and took the lovely Husky girl - but I only just heard them return as I was fading fast. Can't have been later than nine. Reading a few pages of RC last night it is impossible not to think those people venturing out on the wild seas really were brave and resourceful. To manage not to kill himself with the food he prepared, butchering goats, birds and turtles. And to discover methods of drying grapes and basket making. It makes me certain the industrial revolution made us dispossessed of the land and the ways of the land. Now we have artisans then we had to survive. The village is named for the Knights Templar and a water source. This morning I will set off at eight and head ...

Lent begins.

Over to Costa for an erstwhile coffee. Woke up at six. Remade the bed then heard wood pigeons. Morning prayer is at 7:30 in Our Lady Martyrdom chapel. When I collected my pilgrim credentials yesterday the lady at that post said there were two Dutch people who had picked up theirs earlier in the day. Perhaps they will be in the chapel this morning. It is Ash Wednesday. It is here! It was a long time coming! A brief breakfast with Austin and An other then I set off back to the Cathedral to see the congregation gather for the Eucharist. But I can't partake in any of the prayers, excepting the Lords Prayer, so I couldn't go into that chapel and listen to any more of the Psalms. There is no reason for vengeance in the message of Christ. I don't know how it got into the story of Christ at all? The weather is sharp showers and chilly, it passes for the sun to appear and me to sweat inside my rain jacket. No sign of any of our orange cousins on the route so far. Finally I have r...

February 9th. Part 2.

It's just me at the refractory table. I've some saucisson, rye bread and a belly of local ale - three pints at The Foundry brew pub. Austin and Micael are out. It is nice to be here on the main thoroughfare in Canterbury alone. I am ready for the off. Canterbury has the cathedral and the pilgrims hospital for me. The main way is the same souvenir coffee shop retail parade that is representative of every town, city and suburb in this era. In London I saw an Ethiopian roasting coffee for a genuine cup of what we no longer consider a luxury. St John's off Waterloo Road. The best cup I ever had was at the mediaeval fayre in Sherwood Forest back in 2008. Some mockery of the Knights of St John made Kava. Near to the optional original heart of that forest I felt the crusaders were home! There is no centre in a forest unless you are an outlaw keeping Him at a distance. Stout men in heavy garments polishing spears and swords for another go at the Saracens! Are we back there again i...

February 9th. Part 1.

Lost note. Oh well. Not quite Coleridge. At platform C Waterloo East. It's a little cold this morning, but not windy. I've discovered that my boots are retaining moisture from my thick socks - thick wool socks so today I try a different method. Only man made fabric. This morning I looked around The Cut and found the three vintage Citroens which line Roupell Street. They're a tourist destination for me. Didn't manage to get to the Scooter Works on Lower Marsh, but I've enough coffee already. One 99pence filter at Pret, there are so many coffee shops in London. What else is there here? Millions rushing to their many boxes being drawn to the ball and chain. I stood and giggled. Then gave my remaining change to a homeless guy. He's from Adelaide and used to work in the film industry. Now he's on the streets next to Southwark Underground. Now I am heading east of on an earlier train to Canterbury. Had a lovely breakfast chat with the three Sister's at the ...

February 8th. Part 2.

The harshest experience I've ever had must be finding Inner Temple Gardens closed off because of 30mph winds! Surely those barrister's are insured against a falling tree? No doubt the discount is mighty? Setting off down Gray's Inn Street I quickly arrived at Fleet Street and from there it was not long until I crossed Millennium Bridge. I will never forget the short cuts in London to try to keep away from tourists and the law. I found myself laughing at my surprise at arriving at the junction of Fleet and Fetter so soon. The backpack is heavy but not over the top. The weather might be inclement but it can't be the Aubrac in May 2013! That would really be a surprise? Maybe a welcome challenge. So my route was curtailed to the Thames, but eventually I came upon it at the end of Temple Avenue. The mighty Thames where slavery is still shackled to the brick and mortar edifices. No longer filled to the waterline with vessels, but pushed upon by every quay and embankment so th...