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Finisterre/Fisterra

My most recent conversation back to the UK makes it clear that I'm just about right to return to sunny blighty for a little while. I'm feeling utterly tired and, even though my feet feel better, one night's sleep without others snoring, etc I'm exactly knackered. The short walk to Cape Finisterre felt indecisive. My mind wasn't of subject; I caught myself worrying a little about what to do now? A walk on ferry might be potentially cheapest from Santander if I head up to A Coruna. Something is telling me to walk home from Cornwall. Rome feel a crazy concept with the currently saggy tired eyed me. I said I would get there to meet Jason in July which I would do still if I found a cheap means of staying there too. The end of the world was a great place to conclude the ninth chapter and recall all the fantastic food, wine and the cast of thousands I met across Europe. Some point has been reached in my head and tomorrow I'm heading north and towards the sights and sm...

The End of the Wrong Camino.

Ever since Cahors a theory has developed I found my freedom in the terrors the way found for me between Puy and Aubrac. Something singular and significantly pastoral. Just a tidy seventeen kilometres today. Puts me at two stages beyond the Canadian devil. Stopping - Finished for today. Donativo 3 on the bounce. In a wilderness of persons I escaped alive and with wit. Busy bee. Couple of beers with Daniel from Barcelona; father Liverpool and mother Catalan. After popping to the supermecardo cooked a paella with red peppers, onions, rice, chorizo picante, pancetta, white wine, herbs provence, salt. Sat down with a stick of bread and el coto crianza 2008. Legendary supper. Shared the fayre with 5 others. I hardly know their names. Did a meal unlike Wednesday night. Not lacking depth and textures. Great Vino makes a significant difference. Helene, one of our hosts, enjoyed the supper while Pierre emphasises the need to donate €7. I was hoping you weren't a vegan and doesn't drin...

Pilgrimage Pt.30.

Tried to pay my Orange account, but I am unable. Usual paper self rearing it's head mid to late in the month. One bit of administration for June/July. Hope my family can help me in the UK? I know I must overcome this feeling of being alone amongst a legion of Pelegrinos. What kind of goal is being lost like a silent voice in the choir of disorganized cacophony. I am not alone thinking the young 'pelegrino' are crazy. I collected my micro towel. I will breakfast and away. I dreamt a few days ago about JFK coming to visit me and a friend. I tried to warn him of his fate, but he wouldn't listen. This was in Pamplona. It is possible this was a warning to me that my way would become my mental assassination. I should have listened to Serge in Cahors. I understood so little around that table, but word of the road Primativo cropped up every night of the four I camped out. I am not on the Way because of a Movie! I am laid out on my floor for the night; which is fine, but the ...

Agrophobia.

How to accommodate the crowds? How to be always the few not the many? 0.01%. Many Italia. Beautiful locale which reminds me of the Tours Anglais in Aubrac. But instead of two Frenchmen and I ... Sixty Italians, one Danish, one South African, eighty Spanish and I hear an Israeli? What! I am reminded of the road to calvary by Bruegal. Yes we are all individuals! A beautiful space but I feel crammed into a low celling and between all the young voices and piano playing adolescents I can't cope. This part of the Camino is too rammed. I must find a way that links me with freedom and existence. I asked if I could sleep in the second overflow and now a way across the road listening: If 6 was 9. Free. I don't care. 0.01%.

Pilgrimage Pt.29.

The devil is in our midst and he is Canadian. Stoned beyond redemption and suddenly he's the chef de cuisine. I'm hating the way my experience has been altered by one unaware individual. He is meaningless. I must remember that he is meaningless. He has disturbed me twice now. In both large Cities: Pamplona and Logrono. So much I just want to go home. People have played up to his appallingly bad meal. Flavourless and over cooked. Second time I've needed to flee the dinner table at the conclusion of the sweet course. Oh why! Those guys from over the Atlantic must make themselves heard. They're insanely insignificant to Europe. With a better morning and rice pudding for breakfast I run run run to autobus estacion for to out-distance Peter, Amish and two Americans. thanks to Claire from iglesia de santiago el real for helping me. and also Nicole and Antonio at breakfast for bringing the better feeling back. if I see Peter, Hank or Bernadie again in this life! I realise wit...

Pilgrimage Pt.28.

Bed. Unwind. Spoke briefly to our volunteer host. She asked me if there was anything I needed. After snoozing, with a heavy downpour filling the ancient streets of Logrono and washing away stress. I find napping on a rainy afternoon doubly engaging. Elisa and her father have found the bed next to mine for the night. There are a limited number of beds, but there are also a number of matts on the first floor. The bell of the large church sounds down the quarters and the host comes to beckon me for a hot drink and biscuits. I leave the tranquility of my bed for a table of loud discussions, but I find ease in camomile and 24 tiles depicting the life of Saint Vincent. I know that there is less reason to the Way than I perceive others demanding it be. An American lady wanted to come with me when I went for my sandwich and detour but I wanted to be alone. She seems so intensely loud and wants everyone to hear her stories. Why do I want to end this now. We don't need to fill every silenc...

Pilgrimage Pt.27.

Weather has changed. Finally! Rain and grey skies, alternating with sunny spells. Nice small village on a hill side to hang in today. Not in the same brutal expectant for the morrow. Stopping at Logrono - famous for La Rioja. First Cahors now I'm in La Rioja: they'll be no complaints about the wine, however the queso campagna is very average. Must go out of my way to find a special cheese to stick with a robust but yielding vino tinto. What more do you need? Brebis? Hung about until seven for our pelegrino supper. Three courses, bread, wine and water for only €10. Pleasures of conversations too. Bo, elisa, guy. A dane and two bretons. My broken French is exactly like 'allo 'allo policeman. Not too impressed with the green label Rioja; the lower levels of that wine are using the DOC moniker, but they're not more than vin du table. Rioja needs to re-assert it's expectations and firmly say no the wine calling itself Rioja! The ball of my left foot feels crushed u...