A rebel without a clue.

Pilgrimage Pt.13. The weather has no meaning. It is meaningless to weight it down with personifactions. But the rain fills me with a deep longing for more yellow mellow circumstances. It is what it is. Something I've eaten has come straight through me; Delhi Belly. Not sure what it might've been but there were plenty of flies at Relais St Jacques ... the food itself is usually 100% so maybe the water could be a possibility. It is a relief this didn't occur when I was marching this morning and before I climbed the hill between St-Côme and Estalion. That was tough climbing through the black stone quarry soaked. I'm not bothered about statutes of Notre-Dame really. I wonder if rural France never saw anything of the Revolution at all? There seems little to have changed since 1789 except motor cars; the diet must be identical? The food can't be a reason for these tidings. Booked into to a gites occupied by a strangely inanimate Argentinian and Germanic caricature. I s...

Pilgrimage Pt.12. So muddy. I feel like a soldier in the winters of the trenches. Set off walking before petit dejourner at 7am. Wanted to come away from the snow and mist I hit St Chély d'Audrac and the heavens open again. I can't walk a second day soaking wet so I stopped to have breakfast. The day is cruel until a man in a van comes to Relais St Jacques who carries bags down for the lightweight walker. I hitch for to Saint Côme d'Olt. If I had set off any later in the matin I would've arrived soaking again! Wow! A quick look around the church in St-Côme then rejoin the GR65 lighter by €15, but drier by far more. I went forward around 15kms so I still walked over 15kms and arrived in Espalion. One stage further but no less torture; the rain lingers, but is more on and off than constant. I still come down into Espalion cussing St Jacques and all his many demons. Chasing me up another twisting and sodden excuse for a path. Now the rain is steady like you get at ...

Pilgrimage Pt.11. I think more of the wolf in sheep's clothing as an obstacle to overcome through self examination. He had no knowledge of what I was seeking but my mind allowed him to enter my subconscious and bring forth demons. He is at least a day ahead of me now. This morning I was ready to leave the Chemin Faisant by 7:55am. A breakfast with people leaving by train to jump forward some 300 kms in seven hours; catching three connections at various stations: that also is a Way. Walking though Lasbros my thoughts turn to Lord of the Rings as I am walking passed a feature known as Barradou. The two Germans I saw this morning, who I assumed to be French, I left behind at Le Gare Au-Au, but as I approached Chapelle de Bastide the cheats were already ahead circulating like the Kaiser's Raptors. Onwards at a steady 5.6kms per hour I am covering the distance respectably. ... 'fucking weather, ha!' What happened to the weather. The wrath of god was upon the moor. Fr...

( https://www.evernote.com/shard/s315/sh/1bc417a5-1063-4e75-abf1-d666dd8e4bdb/4cc30b703f7a6b84898a78b9c7fe1550) I need to clear out of this town as soon as the dawn has broken. All I needed here was those functional things we take for granted when we have occupational responsibilities. Saved three madam from Quebec the indignity of Gites Calypso. A man with a badly tattooed arm, a collosal 'I've never even been in a boat' faux sailor's air and huge wowser. How easy is it to see vagueness in out of the way places? The self same vagueness England's pubs exhibit. So far I've managed only a couple of beers at meal times. Last night I ordered a half bottle of Vin a la Maison. It was to wash the food down and was insignificant. Having eaten my fill at the Hotel Aubrac for lunch I will abstain from anything else until I cross the street, duck into the Rival store and pick up my provisions for 35kms tomorrow from 8am. The first part of the pilgrimage is concluding with...

Pilgrimage Pause Pt.2. Washing day. Real nothing day. Bought a couple of things I'll need for camping after I reach Conques, including a purposeful multiple knife: Victorinox. Last expensive day too. Next location only €8.50 per night. This town is quiet at 12:30 as everything closes for the afternoon, but for a change the sun is out so it feels like a great day to stay put. Spent a tidy sum on dinner last night as everything is otherwise closed on Dimarche. Been to the pharmacy for foot cream, voltoron gel and contact lens solution. Did a wash first thing and now everything is back to clean for another four days muddiness. Meant to rain on Tuesday and be about 10 degrees centigrade. It is a surprise that the weather here on the Aubrac Plateau is exactly like the UK. It's a kilometre closer to the sun so that must, by degrees, makes it feel like the UK. All the flora and fauna is identical too. Like an island in south central France. If anything we are still in early spring he...

The Way of the Wolf Part. 1. Our host, over dinner, told us the tale of the local wolf, who had been murdered centuries ago, and was blamed then, and forever, for any evil deed that only a man would commit, thoughtlessly, on his fellows. A tragic tale of a scapegoat used as a means of escape for one barbaric act. After the most complete five courses of lovingly created fayre, and locally made cheese and bread, I spoke directly with him of my last days horrible chase and how I felt haunted and lost upon the frozen mountain trail. He saw that I was in a state of considerable agitation and in need of help. It was then that he told me that he was a good spirit put there on the junction of the roads to help those needing support, guidance and friendship to take the correct steps towards discovery of their path. The transformation of a man to a wolf then back to a man. The humped back, silver toothed jongular driving me to meet my fate with snow blizzarding along our path; hiding our fo...

Pilgrimage Pause Pt.1. Aumont-Aubrac Today was considerately easier going for me. I set off after petitdejourner alone and promised I wouldn't spend any of today's leg in anyones company. I have learnt already this is my walk and must do it my way all the way at all costs. After a superb communal supper I went to bed on the top (in a bunk bed) for the first time along the way. Hank the buffalo was below me and the German couple from Konstanz were in a double bed nearest the window; without any curtains so you could only sleep dusk until dawn. I slept peacefully until Hanks snores brought me out of slumber around half past five. I tried to block out the pulses but it was impossible. Eventually I got up and packed ready for breakfast and the continuation of the Camino. After two successively fast paced and relentless days it felt that Sunday mustn't be as forboding so I could just get somewhere and feel a little more like a whole bodied man again! I walked passed the chur...