end of day five out from Vézelay

Just stopped for a coffee in main focal point of Brécy and there was the pelerin who woke me up at 5am... I walk fast, but he must have other means: like the devil he's beyond mere humanity, but not God because he's not infinite or eternal? First pilgrm in four days and I didn't like him... He told me a talk too fast so I stopped talking to him after that. Last night he shared none of the fayre I spread on the table.

***

Bearing down on Bourges and my body is stumbling today. What I consumed yesterday was not so healthy: from too much rich, but glorious, chocolate which I wolved down coming into Baugy. Now it's finding its way out of me again! First toilet by the wayside. The large absorbent napkin that I kept from the scramble eggs in Paris on Sunday came in useful. Still got two sections of four I tore it up in to. My bowels feel less agitated. It's all part of my Camino experience the bodily functions i must perform, especially after a 75cl bottle of vino... But I was wasn't hung over: the tin of flageolet beans made sure I would be fine in the head.

Up ahead I've booked a Airbnb for solace, washing machine and a large bed without the feeling of claustrophobia I was dealing with back in Baugy - that Gîte was ideal for one, not two, three or four (luckily it was only two). Up on the ridge, riding the horizon, the cathedral sits like a ship, proudly high and lightly cargoed, on water calm around it...

***

A very long day. And I am not sure I can do this again tomorrow and Sunday and Monday and Tuesday. Featureless walking. Pretty distractions just straight endless tarmac or forestry commission tracks. Berry must be famous for its agriculture and barrel making... But the Voie de Vézelay doesn't pass through much to write home about... Flat, but not quite La Mancha desolation.

The guy serving in the bar Le Murrayfield recommends walking from Châteauroux not to it... That's tomorrow. I get there stay over on Saturday and set off Sunday. Technically I don't need to be in Limoges until mid afternoon on Wednesday as my flight isn't until 17:20 and it's a short walk to the airport. Or just two more days in Limousin rather that the flat Berry. I can't find the jewel I was looking for on a flat plain plateau. The jewel I touched was in Écouen, everywhere else has been merde.

***

Since Beauvais this is my first 'city' - Paris isn't one, it's a metropolis, and has none of the quaintness of French smaller cities; it doesn't feel French at all to me and I've visited quite a few of the gems. However I am beginning to feel that this is the end of France for me. Shamefully I will never 'grasp' the language or the way - I am simply too old and I haven't the insight I often hope for? But that's just a passing doubt?