Camí Sant Jaume 2.

Many bites from the mountain (and perhaps from the late lunch and the two beers while I decided whether to eat or sleep. Two savoury local savoury patisserie - spinach and raisin/onions and pimento), and the itching woke me up around four as I feared bedbugs. Luckily the room was clear.

Until I checked in around 4 I had no memory of the establishment I left from over a year ago. And even now it's a little hazy... Sat enjoying a coffee while I consider the third stage which takes me back to the Gaia River so I will have zigzagged. Another coffee and a croissant and then away. Across is a supermarket, but the next town isn't so far away.

Last time I was passing through, having fallen badly in the Pyrenees, experiencing the various quality ales in Lleida and Montblanc, but not walking and this time stone cold sober heading towards the second and third monasteries before joining the main route West from Girona, etc, but only until Thursday. But it's worth it as I have to return to UK for potential hospital appointments in the rest of autumn and winter...

***

From 1pm I walked forever. My bowels wanted to move for the last ten kilometres so I walked fast to the destination - then they subsided. First Refugio of this Camino - such a relief to be in such a simple place; but I hope the dreaded mosquitoes can leave me alone?

I was just in time for a Sister, and someone in information to get me the guesthouse Sister: €20 in a true Refugio. The final leg of the three Cistercian Monasteries went on and on and on. Didn't have time to consider how many bites I may have... It's a lot!

***

Another café another coffee. In Vallbona there was nowhere so I hitched in the rain and before dawn. Now I am in Bar Centro, Maidá having a warm time, but I sat on the top table and it's the table for the locals to discuss politics so I moved adjacent to eat fantastic egg sandwich with the news headlines repeating the same censored bullshit every 30 minutes! I am away again shortly.

***

As it tries to rain I am passing signposts counting down the distance to Lleida, but I am weary this morning: the clock tower bells ringing in the quarters again...

Since yesterday the stench of pigs hangs heavy on the air. It pervades every natural odour: the pine forest smell has vanished!

***

An interesting font down some ancient steps into a grotto... The water so clear that I took the chance it's potable - I take this chance regularly as I pass well signposted wells, springs and sources of water our ancestors would've treasured more than life itself...

Passing through irrigated orchards - almonds, peaches, fruit endlessly - on my left a gaseous noise and several of our African agricultural slaves continue the good work which we forget they do for our sustenance... They live on the edge of being. The pigs in the stys l am passing probably are better looked after? None of these workers are officially in Europe of course or provided for. However I do believe working on field for €5 an hour must be better than dying of whichever tropical or semitropical disease is waiting to exploit us next?