Mainz

I cherish everything, being a reflection of the one and this morning really reflects this unity. And the landscape and essence has changed. I'm on the Jakobsweg, Bonifaceweg and Rheingau weinweg! Beautiful sunshine and a subtle shift to spring.

Twenty two kilometres prior to noon. That's the thing about setting off with the sunrise ... I've such inspiration. It lags off if I walk after the sun has already risen. Yesterday I was on the go at nine am, but it was a very different day. Other than a stop for breakfast after I'd got to Kriftel I've flown because suddenly the landscape opened up for the first time since Flieden, Schlüchtern and Steinau and the sun is basking in its glory pouring down onto the Rheingau!

What wonderful day, including a Croatian Weinstube/Restaurant in Hochheim where I simply had to go to Cevapčići, Ajvar and Rheingau Alt Reben Riesling. It was a long walk to cross the Rhine into Mainz on the Theodore Heuss Brücke, as the skies finally opened, then I felt sure I'd find the answer to my prayers! No more sofas, chairs, Asylum houses and Kloster/Hotels, but no: it's just the same! The Domburo tried to help, half heartedly and then the Tourist Information came to to a literal, couldn't care less standstill, and I pushed out of the "Alt-Stadt" back to the Karmetltekloster I'd seen on my way to my destiny. A very blank Indonesian gentleman thought I was Italian and really didn't believe I was both British and on a pilgrimage. It took me opening my backpack and divulging contents and passport until he smiled slightly and said "Englisch?" When a brother came to the door he, in his octogenarian apparel, couldn't talk to me fully - I wonder what wonders my teeth are doing to outsiders, as well as my self image - but he slapped some money in my palm, respectfully blessed me and pointed to where some hotels were. When I looked at the notes in my hand I was gobsmacked: €90. I'm so short of money that this is literally two days in Germany: I'm blessed by a man of the cloth who couldn't help and came across slightly frightened of me with these teef but was truly wholesome.