Forty-seven.

A great breakfast: from afar I spotted oats!!!

Martine is the boss here, her husband rarely looked my direction - probably loathes us English. Actually I am back in the land of the living. Porridge. I've 36kms to go. But it's the final etape ... Last Way this way. I know I'll never stop walking. The path is my destination. Am I happy? I'm sardonic! We had a better time this morning when she didn't need to play up to the crowd.

Le Puy en Velay. I'm here. Managed to shave a little off the distance, but probably just 3kms, by following other routes and turning to the IGN app I'd not used yet. The last two hours were relentless, but I managed. Twice I forgot I'd left overs from the evening so I've just polished them off and am sitting in Brasserie Le Palais with a Fischer Doreleï (demi). So many people. I forgot the earth was inhabited by many of us. It's Dimanche and it's closed for business: I may just tuck into a pizza for my meal: have to be back to the Relais Saint Jacques before ten. In the morning I've sorted a BlaBlaCar to Lyon at 6am so no funny business.

How do I feel? Dirty, sore, beardy, charmless, unable to speak and smelling. Sitting furthest from the French persons: don't want to block their noses! Another beer. Pizza then bed.

How do I feel? Perfect, just perfect. Thirteen days. I think I rushed the stage from the Rhône because the rucksack was getting on my nerves! It was all up from the river. France is a very beautiful country and is very close to nature. It's more akin to Poland, Hungary and those countries for being rural and disconnected from modernity enough. They work very hard, and they know how to talk, but they also caress nature when they can. Black wolves and others are back in style.

Oats are the supreme walking food. The French may be gourmands, but they don't know how best to start the day when you've many mountains, hills, rivers and dogs to cross.

The weather was great really. Just two days rain. Only one torrential. I've just bought a bagel as the clouds gather over the Grande Place.