I still can't recall the name of this town!

Finding the key to the front door of the Sunday School was making me lose the plot. Then I recalled that the front door attacked me last night. It's one of those stable door types, but the bottom half wasn't moving as I collided with it. Merrily I was a little merry from the vino and finding this bed in a classroom. I'd left the key in the front door. Having repacked my emptied rucksack and left the room ship shape off I went to locate a cafe, putting the key through the post box of the priests home. Yesterday was the first time I'd stepped into a church and it was quite beautiful inside: I've been trying to stay clear of the Church for a while: as though I have a grievance with it. It has done wrong on many many levels, but I guess it gives millions much needed sanctuary. Mostly I find mine in the unexpected incidents: like the previous town where the bar had a "real" cider from Navarra: a guy in the bar told me I was more excited than his children are on Christmas Day, ripping open their presents! And why not! Most of the fluid dispensed from the bottles and faucets in Spain is so barren of flavour and, obviously, life (when it is filtered, pasteurised, dead)! I guess a good many people see alcohol as nothing more than stimulant (sedative), but, as it has become one of my "hobbies" since I first tasted an Oude Kriek back in 1992, I will get extremely excited when I get the chance! As with all things fermented it must be left to be consumed alive with "good" bacteria and yeasts. This is another reason I've grown out of the "craft" beer scene which is slowly being bought out by corporations and falling into the canning trap.

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Two more days. And that's it. I've learnt to stop drinking in the afternoon and switch to water from then onwards: drinking a litre around bed time and during the night: even if I have to slam my head into a low door frame from time to time and slice my brain in twain! Now I'm starting the day with fried eggs and bacon, plus chorizo, zumo de naranja, coffee and plenty of water. Next stop is Alba de Tormes.

Sunday was the winter solstice, so I suppose this is really winter now? January and February to come. And there is no wind and no clouds in the sky and a slowly waxing moon drifts across in the pre-dawn chill.

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